Quiltish Corner

View Original

It's a Mystery! Part 5

You made it to the final set of clues!

*** scroll to the bottom of the page for a printable PDF

Clue 29: Gather up all the 2 ½” x 12 ½” rectangles from Clue 2 and the remaining 2 ½” squares from Clues 3, 4, 5 and 6. Each of your four coordinates will have been assigned a number in Clue 21.

Clue 30: Place a 2 ½” x 12 ½” rectangle right side up horizontally on the table in front of you. Place a fabric 4 square on the left side of the rectangle with right sides together and the drawn line going from bottom left to top right. Place a fabric 3 square on the right side of the rectangle with right sides together and the drawn line going from bottom right to top left. Stitch just inside the line closest to the corner on both sides (as in Clue 11), press seams toward the corners and trim seam allowances to ¼” (L-3, T-4, Q-6).

Clue 31: Place a 2 ½” x 12 ½” rectangle right side up horizontally on the table in front of you. Place a fabric 2 square on the left side of the rectangle with right sides together and the drawn line going from bottom left to top right. Place a fabric 4 square on the right side of the rectangle with right sides together and the drawn line going from bottom right to top left. Repeat stitching as above in Clue 30 (L-4, T-6, Q-7).

Clue 32: Place a 2 ½” x 12 ½” rectangle right side up horizontally on the table in front of you. Place a fabric 3 square on the left side of the rectangle with right sides together and the drawn line going from bottom left to top right. Place a fabric 1 square on the right side of the rectangle with right sides together and the drawn line going from bottom right to top left. Repeat stitching as above in Clue 30 (L-4, T-6, Q-7).

Clue 33: Place a 2 ½” x 12 ½” rectangle right side up horizontally on the table in front of you. Place a fabric 1 square on the left side of the rectangle with right sides together and the drawn line going from bottom left to top right. Place a fabric 2 square on the right side of the rectangle with right sides together and the drawn line going from bottom right to top left. Repeat stitching as above in Clue 30 (L-3, T-4, Q-6).

***All of the units from Clues 29-33 will complete the secondary design along the outer edges of the quilt in the upcoming clues.

*** Remember the scant ¼” for seam allowances.

Clue 34: Stitch all the Clue 31 units together into one long column. This becomes the left hand side inner border. Press seams in the opposite direction to the seams in the quilt top. Stitch to the left side of the quilt matching the design and seam allowances. Press seam allowance toward the border.

Clue 35: Stitch all the Clue 32 units together into one long column. This becomes the right hand side inner border. Press seams in the opposite direction to the seams in the quilt top. Stitch to the right side of the quilt matching the design and seam allowances. Press seam allowance toward the border.

Clue 36: Grab the baggie of half square triangles (HST’s) from Clue 10. HST’s #4 and #3 will go with Clue 37 and HST’s #1 and #2 will go with Clue 38.

Clue 37: Stitch all the Clue 30 units together into one long column. Stitch HST #4 to one end and HST #3 to the other end. This becomes the top inner border. Press seams in the opposite direction to the seams in the quilt top. Stitch to the top of the quilt matching the design and seam allowances. Press seam allowance toward the border.

Clue 38: Stitch all the Clue 33 units together into one long column. Stitch HST #1 to one end and HST #2 to the other end. This becomes the bottom inner border. Press seams in the opposite direction to the seams in the quilt top. Stitch to the bottom of the quilt matching the design and seam allowances. Press seam allowance toward the border.

Now that the inner borders have been attached, the secondary design of complete “diamond” squares really stands out against the background.

Clue 39: Gather up the outside borders from the baggie in Clue 1. For those of you using lengthwise borders no piecing is required. Follow instructions in the tutorial Wave Goodbye to Wavy Borders to attach both the side borders as well as the top and bottom ones.


Sharon’s Hint:

***For those of you using width of fabric borders the strips need to be sewn together to make them longer. There are 2 camps when sewing these strips together...diagonal seams or straight seams. When choosing which one, what I say to that is “it depends”. Diagonal seams tend to make the seam disappear whereas straight seams sometimes draw attention to the seam. Of course, the design in the fabric has a lot to do with it.

The fabric I chose for my sample is wonderful for either application as it works with both the diagonal or straight seam...the pattern does not seem to be interrupted either way. Nine times out of ten I personally use diagonal seams.

draw a diagonal line, stitch on the line

trim seam allowance to ¼” and press seam open

an almost invisible diagonal seam

an almost invisible straight seam

Before sewing yours together, fold one end on the diagonal and place it over the other strip to see if the seam “disappears”. Then try folding it as if it were a straight seam and check that too. Choose your favourite and then continue. Just know that the diagonal seam uses more fabric, so if fabric is tight, use the straight seam.

Clue 40: Stitch the border strips together (from the baggie in Clue 1) to make them long enough for all sides of the quilt top. Follow instructions in the Wave Goodbye to Wavy Borders tutorial (or print the available PDF) to attach both the side borders as well as the top and bottom ones.

Congratulations! You have successfully completed the Quiltish Corner Mystery Quilt! Thanks so much for taking part and I hope you had fun and enjoyed the process...even if you may have been stepping out of your comfort zone.

(my completed quilt, to the right, is quilted with the pantograph Soho by Urban Elementz)

*** If you plan on making this quilt again: think about fussy-cutting a motif from the focus fabric for the centre square OR make another smaller pieced block for the centre (for example a 4-patch or pinwheel) OR a four-patch posey.